TWIST it, turn it, work it, belt it: that was the message that Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron were promoting with their Gianfranco Ferré collection today. No look was complete without a belt and it had to be fastened just so – elaborate and twisted and elegantly tamed to stay in line with the rest of the shapes going on around it.
This duo is known for their sculptural aesthetic, able to manipulate and elongate, smooth out and refine shapes to precise and futuristic effect. Last season they toned that down, a good move given they were still only one year into working with the heritage house. Today it seemed to simultaneously go up and down a notch – layers were the key here.
Jackets and skirts, tunics and coats all came with a severity to their cut but layered all together made for a less forceful and sci-fi approach. Something which worked for the better and put their clothes back in the real-world realms – though there was still a series of cloaks towards the end that might still be a little too other-worldly for some.
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JESSICA BUMPUS | FEBRUARY 25, 2013 | Article Link
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