In his many shows, the designer has turned complexity into an art form. But this time he made things appear simple and it produced a powerful collection.
Even those “tricks” from Chalayan legend — the tables turning into dresses, for example — were transformed in the show Friday into a simple and beautiful gesture: a model walking toward the camera in a short, draped dress, and then pulling at the silk at the neck until it flowed over into a long dress. No gimmicks. Just lovely either way.
It is tough to be a visionary when “next” is translated into a fast-fashion parade. But with this show Mr. Chalayan reached a goal that has so often escaped him: a modern wardrobe of interesting clothes but simple, sporty jackets and pants.
As one of the first designers to bring high tech to high fashion, he also knows when to back-off. The digital prints were all the more effective for being sparse and often seeming to blend with the swirling digital backdrop. Every single piece of clothing seemed a desirable fashion offering connected to the real world.
“She’s the Parisian woman,” announced Roland Mouret, referring to that legendary creature’s smoky hose and favored black, white and animal prints — and using her as a showcase for his new range of handbags.
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SUZY MENKES | March 1, 2013 | Read More. Article Link
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